Eser

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Eser is indeed its namesake.

The Mishna speaks elaborately about holy places that were destroyed and the inherent sanctity of the space maintained with the hope that the space will be reborn with a renewed sense of opportunity. The entire city of Jerusalem is built on that same notion of rebuilding on top of the destruction. Some say we have indeed rebuilt, and others say we are on a path towards that goal. Alas, I digress.

Not so many years ago, across from Jaffa Street, near the old hospital and Armenian Church not too far from Ben Yehuda Street lived an amazing restaurant called, Anna Ticho – some called it Ticho House – a home founded in 1924 and bequeathed to the Israel Museum for the owners love of art and culture. . It was one of the many victims of COVID-19. The space laid empty and dormant for a few years. Now, it has been rebuilt on the same location and its holiness has been restored. Like its predecessor, it is a dairy restaurant and bears the name ESER – Hebrew for ten. And it scores as such on this and any reasonable review.

The restaurant is housed in an art museum which is apt, because most of the dishes are artistic, beautiful and and a sight to behold.  The Chef is from the Zuta and 1868 group, so no wonder about the tastes and presentation.

I enjoyed a wide array of dishes while there that afforded me a panoply of tastes and possibilities. The salads were exquisite and fresh. The pastas were like pillows, light and airy with subtle and delicious tastes. Not overwhelming in anyway. The St. Peter’s fish, native to the Kinneret, was prepared perfectly with crispy skin and soft meat and served with delicious, puréed potatoes and garnished in a manner deserving of MOMA recognition.

Eser has a serious cocktail game too, I am sure inspired by Zuta. It will add to the holiness, and not detract in anyway.

Bring your Lactaid to this meal. It is dairy heavy.  If your innards can maintain the milk, it is worth it on all levels and have this ten out of ten meal, in a renewed and rebuilt holy place.