Flame

Menu
(A dynamic menu and not offered online -This is link for reservations)
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A burning hot, upscale restaurant with delicious meat and amazing views.

Steak seems to be analogous to the rebirth of the State of Israel. It is as if we always knew about the food in our collective memory but have been reintroduced to it in modernity. A culinary Alt Neu (see Herzl) experience.  Since our homecoming back to this - old/new place -  steak meals are a critical muscle of the startup culinary nation.

Theodore Herzl Dreaming about kosher steak in Tel Aviv

Kosher meat has always been a commodity. As a kid, I remember the refrigerated truck arriving thrice annually to our home in Florida. We spent the afternoon unloading shoulders of beef and crates of chicken and putting them in Ziplocs and then packing them into one of our four freezers, all while my dad worked the industrial slicer on turkey roll and sides of corned beef. Getting kosher meat was challenging in smaller communities back in the day. Getting special meats and designer cuts is a modern phenomenon. No kosher fresser knew what a Denver cut, Prime Rib what Wagyu was a generation ago – and we had no clue it could ever be kosher. But guess what? It is! And is more and more available to the near and far.

Today, in Israel, kosher steak places are an embellished way of marking arrival. For the kosher eaters, a fancy steak restaurant with trendy cuts of meat (eg, Denver, Wagyu et al) and exceptional preparation brings us one step closer to being like other nations, if not a light unto them.

One of the, ahem, hottest new places that fills this 2000 year of void is Flame. Located on the second floor of the Carlton Hotel in Tel Aviv, this picturesque location overlooking Gordon beach and the fantastic sunset is one of the latest upscale Steak eateries in Israel. I specifically mention the sunset because this location is only open for dinner and the sunset over the Mediterranean is as breathtaking as the food.

The cornerstone of this open kitchen is a large, elevated grill over wood coals. This is a classic Argentinean style of roasting and grilling meats to perfection.  

We started our meal with some yummy bread and spreads. While very fresh and tasty, it was a not a particularly large portion for a table of six eaters. We then warmed our bellies with Sinta Bruschetta, which were thin toasts with a tahini tapenade and sliced steak. The beef tartare was very good. Personally, I like tartare meat very cold. This was room temperature but still yum. It was served on a sesame cracker. The beef strella was a carpaccio served over olive oil that had tremendous kick. It was very delicious, despite its spiciness.

For main dishes we all had a variation of beef. One enjoyed the “Vegas cut” a lean and long medallion taken from the shoulder blade. Another the Picanania, which is similar to the lean slices of beef found on skewers at Brazilian steak joints. It was very good! I shared a 1kilogram dry aged Prime Rib with cousin Dan. I found it a little fatty. And because it was cut for us, the cap – my favorite part - was less enjoyable than usual. Still, it was good and for me, the chimichurri brought it home. The Missus had the fillet, and it was like butter. Served with charred Jerusalem artichoke that was exquisite and oyster mushrooms in a pareve cream sauce, this was the belle of the ball, for sure. Luckily, she got full early, and I got to finish her plate.

The desserts were limited and good. But let’s face it, you are NOT going to Flame for desserts.

There are only three options and we had one of each. The lemon crème pie, resembles flan but thankfully, does not taste like it. Served ice cold and with mango sorbet, this refreshed the palate perfectly after the heaviness of the meal. The chocolate mousse, served over a brownie and nuts and drizzled with tahini was interesting. It did not repulse me but didn’t grab me either.  The meringue and crème dessert was beautiful in its presentation ……and beautiful in its presentation. (For those that do not understand my style of communication, it means it was not tasty).

The wine cellar is pretty, with a limited but lovely selection. We enjoyed a few glasses and one summer bottle but erred on the conservative side of grapes we knew we enjoy. 

The bill might have been confused for the phone number. It was expensive.

Flame is another worthy notch in the growing list of upscale and delicious Kosher steak restaurants in Israel. It might not set the market for kosher beef in Israel, but it is worthy of mention and merits the visit and investment. Enjoy!